BEACHES AND CHURCHES: SPENDING THE HOLY WEEK IN KALINGA AND APAYAO

The provinces of Kalinga and Apayao make up the Apostolic Vicariate of Tabuk. There are seven towns and one component city in Kalinga: Balbalan, Lubuagan, Pasil, Pinukpuk, Rizal, Tabuk City, Tanudan and Tinglayan and seven towns of Apayao: Calanasan, Conner, Flora, Kabugao, Luna, Pudtol and Sta. Marcela. For the Holy Week of 2022, I decided to explore this apostolic vicariate. Bishop Jun Andaya very much welcomed me as his guest at his residence. Bishop Jun told me that it would be good if I could already attend the chrism mass which was on a Holy Tuesday so that I could already meet the priests whom I will be visiting throughout the week.

We left Manila on the afternoon of Holy Monday and stayed overnight at the bishop’s residence in Bayombong to be in Tabuk, Kalinga before nine in the morning. Since we left Bayombong early we had enough time that we were able to visit four parish churches of the towns belonging to the diocese of Ilagan, Isabela which were along our way: Aurora, Roxas, Mallig and Quezon (featured in another post).

April 12, Holy Tuesday

After the Chrism mass, Bp. Jun lost no time in introducing me to the priests telling them that I will be visiting their parishes. I was told that I will concelebrate the Holy Thursday evening mass at the parish in Dagupan, Tabuk then I will be joining the station of the cross which will be done by motorcade around another parish in Tabuk. Then I got to talk to the Agustinian priest who was the parish priest of Lubuagan. He invited us to go with them to his parish and even stay overnight in Awichon which is a Kalinga cultural village situated in his parish. Since we had plans to go to Buscalan, Tinglayan, the place of Wang-od, which was in the area, the invitation was just perfect.

Bishop Jun Andaya presiding over the Chrism mass.

Sts. Peter & Paul Parish Church, Lubuagan, Kalinga (F-1925)

The parish convent of Lubuagan

A street in the town of Lubuagan

Arriving in Lubuagan, Fray Toto lost no time in preparing some necessities such as food to be grilled and even blankets. We had to use the parish pick-up truck since the road was not fully cemented and had several steep climbs.

The Awichon Cultural Village is a private property owned by Alonzo Saclag. It features about ten authentic Kalinga houses placed together, resembling a traditional Kalinga village. This was his way of preserving the culture of the Kalinga people. The houses were built without nails, using wooden pegs instead. We donned Kalinga bahags and even danced the tadok in the open space, with Fr. Toto leading us together with three of the workers there.

Awichon Kalinga Cultural village.

The convento of Lubuagan was formerly a Catholic school.

View of the town of Lubuagan

April 13 – Holy Wednesday

We left Awichon Cultural Village shortly after six in the morning. As we descended the mountain, we still stopped to take some pictures, although the clouds had already begun to rise. It is better to do this earlier when the clouds are still low and you find yourself above them.

We had breakfast at the convent in Lubuagan and then left for the town of Tinglayan on our way to Buscalan, home of Whang-od, the famous 105-year-old mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist).

We first passed by the parish church of Tinglayan. The parish priest, Fr. Theodore Pic-it, was there and kindly escorted us in his pick-up truck until we reached the point where we had to park our vehicles and begin hiking.

The village of Buscalan is located on the next mountain ridge from where the road ends. We had to hike down the mountain and then climb up again, a trail of about a kilometer. The first house among the cluster of houses was a souvenir shop where the tattoo needles were sold. The needle is made from the thorn of an orange tree (aslum sanglay), inserted at the end of a small bamboo stick decorated as a souvenir item.

The house of Whang-od was just nearby. She was still eating when we arrived at around eleven in the morning. After about twenty minutes, she came out and began tattooing.

Payments.

First, we had to register at the booth where we parked our car: ₱50 per person. Then we paid ₱1,000 for the guide. Everyone is required to have a guide; ours was named Noime. Upon arriving at the village, we paid another ₱50 each. The signature tattoo cost ₱150. Taking pictures with her cost another ₱50, and the tattoo needle souvenir was also ₱150.

It was just past one in the afternoon when we returned to the convent of Tinglayan, where lunch had already been prepared by the women helpers of the convent.

Fr. Ted mentioned that there is no Catholic chapel in Tinglayan itself since most residents there are Anglicans, which is why he is not very well known there. Fr. Ted himself comes from Tinglayan. He had a brother who was also a priest but who sadly died of COVID.

St. Francis of Assisi Parish Church

Tinglayan, Kalinga (F-1950)

A view of the Chico river from the parish church of Tinglayan

Whang-od tattooing Celoy, our driver.

From Tinglayan, on our way back to Tabuk, we passed by the parish of Naneng which is already part of Tabuk. It was down on the plains surrounded by rice paddies. There was only one street, and they were lined by old wooden two-storey houses. At the end of the street on turning to the left was the parish church. The school was on the opposite end of the street. We visited the church and soon the parish priest who was told of our arrival came out to meet us and offered coffee which is the usual greeting in Kalinga. It seems that all the houses have ever ready thermos with coffee which they offer to everyone who comes.

Fr. Eddamag told us of the tombs of two Cicm priests who were the early missionaries
in the parish who buried near the church.

They informed us also of the spring which was just at the back of the church were people would go to take a bath. They said that the water is warm in the morning but gets to be cold during the day. The wide Chico River was just beside it. So, we decided to take a look only to find out that they were just three sets of steel tubes protruding from the wall with waters freely flowing. We decided instead to walk to the river where we had our bath. Finished off by taking showers at the spring.

When we arrived at the bishop’s residence, we found Bp. Jun doing the cooking in the kitchen. Bishop Jun informed as that their cook took a leave as she got sick.

St. Joseph Parish, Naneng, Tabuk City

The spring at the back of the church

Chico river.

The only road in the village of Naneng.

With the parish priest of Naneng, Fr. Eddamag.

April 14 – Holy Thursday

Since we still had plenty of time before the Evening Mass of the Lord’s Supper, Bishop Jun called the parish priest of Pasil. We were told that he would be going to Magsilay, Pasil for the first death anniversary of a former parishioner. Bishop Jun suggested that we meet him there, which would also give us the opportunity to see the chapel donated by the De La Salle Brothers. It is the only chapel in the country dedicated to St. John Baptist de La Salle.

We used Bishop Jun’s vehicle since the place could not be reached with our Innova. A 4×4 vehicle was necessary because of the steep climbs and rocky, muddy roads.

We arrived around 9:30 a.m. and waited for the parish priest. The chapel had a three-storey structure connected behind the altar. From the back it could hardly be recognized as a chapel. Aside from the one-way glass panels surrounding the building, it looked like an ordinary house. Only the cross on top gave it away.

Mass was celebrated at the residence of the deceased on the occasion of his first death anniversary. We had to go down the mountain through a narrow concrete alleyway. We noticed that many people were present—almost the entire barangay. We were told that the deceased had died of COVID. Even in this remote place, many had fallen ill during the pandemic.

After Mass, we followed Fr. Iba to the main parish church in Pasil. It was another adventure ride over narrow roads. Fr. Iba, the parish priest of Pasil, was formerly an Anglican. He said that he used to spend time at the convento in Conner, Apayao, where he is originally from, and even worked there for a time. Eventually he felt the call to the priesthood, entered the Catholic Church, and joined the seminary.

A marker was placed on the road in going to Pasil where one CICM priest died of a road accident.

St. John the Baptist La Salle Chapel in Magsilay, Pasil

The back part of the chapel of Magsilay. The second floor is the chapel.

Fr. Iba, a former Anglican who converted and became a priest.

Mass and lunch at a residence in Magsilay.

Sudden rockslides could happen. Here the hitchikers of Fr. Iba clearing the road of fallen rocks.

The parish church of Pasil.

The convento of Pasil

The chapel of the old poblacion of Balbalan, Kalinga.

Side view of the church of the old poblacion of Balbalan.

St. Joseph Parish, Dagupan, Tabuk City (F-1949)

Evening of the Lord’s supper was at the St. Joseph Parish in Dagupan, Tabuk. The mass was said in English as I was the celebrant. In the washing of the feet, we each washed 6 of the designated male parishioners. From the pews, the designated parishioners just went up the altar for the washing of feet. The procession for repose used a heavy monstrance as the parish priest was saying that they don’t have yet a tabernacle. The parish church of St Joseph got burned in 2017 Christmas evening. The parish priest related that during the mass, a fuse blew up. To have a fast remedy, they directly connected the wires. After the mass, they forgot to separate the wires, that it overheated and burned which conflagrated right away bringing the whole church down. They had to build a new one. The new church is already elevated as the level of the main road has risen also causing flooding in the church.

April 15 – Good Friday

Bishop Jun accompanied us to Cudal where we were to spend Good Friday. At 5:45 in the morning we joined the Stations of the Cross around the mission territory by motorcade.

The roads were already well cemented, but some villages were located across the river and could only be reached by hanging bridges. Because of this, the stations were placed along the main roads.

I noticed that most of the stations were in the municipality of Tanudan. Fr. Mon explained that only three barangays belong to Tabuk while the rest—around seven or eight—belong to Tanudan.

Starting at 6:30 a.m., we completed the Stations of the Cross in about four hours, covering around fifty kilometers along a circumferential road around the mission territory.

Since it was still early, I asked whether it was possible to reach at least a vantage point overlooking the main town of Tanudan by car. We were told that the road was already cemented almost all the way to Lubo, the poblacion of Tanudan.

We decided to drive there, promising to return by 2:30 p.m. in time for the Good Friday Commemoration of the Passion of the Lord.

The roads were surprisingly well cemented, although there were steep climbs and sharp turns. We reached a vantage point overlooking Lubo and stopped in two places to take pictures. The main poblacion of Lubo sits on top of a hill surrounded by rice terraces cascading down its slopes.

We continued until the point where the car could no longer proceed. We were told it was still about a kilometer and a half to Lubo from where we stopped. The newly cemented road was still unfinished, while the other section had deep muddy holes which we did not dare cross for fear that the car might get stuck.

The Seven Last Words (Siete Palabras) were still ongoing when we returned to Cudal at around 2:15 p.m. After a short break, the Commemoration of the Passion began at 3:30 and ended at about 4:50.

Holy Family Mission Church, Cudal, Tabuk City

View of Lubo, the main poblacion of Tanudan which is surrrounded by rice terraces.

By six in the evening we were back at the bishop’s residence. After a while Bishop Jun asked me to accompany him to buy some Kalinga coffee which he wanted to give me as a gift. The coffee shop had a beautiful ambience, so we stayed for a while to enjoy some coffee.

He then brought me to a weaving center where he bought me a table runner and even a bahag. Since the place was on the way to their family property, he also showed it to me. It had been developed into an events place with a hall, a swimming pool, and several kubos. His brother happened to be there.

Inside the house I noticed a beautiful abstract painting in the living room. When I commented on it, Bishop Jun told me that he had painted it himself. I quickly asked him to pose with me beside the painting. He then mentioned that the other paintings in the residence, which I had not paid much attention to earlier, were also his works.

Kalinga Value System

Bishop Jun explained that the Kalinga people have three important values: Paniyao, Ngilin, and Bain.

Paniyao refers to taboo—avoiding actions that would offend the Almighty. In other tribes it is called Kaniyao.

Ngilin is similar to abstinence—avoiding acts that bring harm or pain to oneself.
Bain refers to hiya or a sense of propriety in relation to others.

There are thirty-seven sub-tribes among the Kalingas. A tribe may consist of two or three barangays. Bishop Jun also remarked that the culture of the Kalingas is closer to that of the Itnegs of Abra than to the Isnegs of Apayao.

Bp. Jun Andaya with his abstract painting at the living room of their house.

April 16 – Holy Saturday

On Holy Saturday morning we left Tabuk for Apayao where we would celebrate the Easter Vigil. Before leaving the bishop’s residence, Bishop Jun asked that we plant a tree in remembrance of our visit. We planted a durian seedling near the outdoor chapel.

Our first stop after leaving Tabuk was the church of Tuga, the parish of St. Joseph the Worker. This is said to be the first church established in the Apostolic Vicariate.

Next we visited the church of Pinukpuk. We then made a short detour to Tuao in Cagayan since it was not far away.

From there we proceeded to Conner, the first town of Apayao. In Conner we met the parish priest, Fr. Ace, who offered us coffee.

After leaving Conner we started driving back toward the road we had come from. After a while we noticed a man chasing us on a motorbike. When he caught up with us he told us that we were heading in the wrong direction. There was another road that served as a shortcut to the next town of Kabugao.

Fr. Rocky was already expecting us when we arrived and had prepared lunch for us.

Our next stop was at the house of the mother-in-law of Celoy, our driver, near the town of Pudtol. They had just blessed a new swimming pool in front of their house that very morning.

When we asked about the Mataguisi church ruins, we were told that we had already passed them about seventeen kilometers earlier. Since there was still time before the 6:30 Easter Vigil in Pudtol, we decided to return and visit the ruins.

This was the first church built by the Dominicans in 1604, which they eventually had to abandon because the native Isnegs—fierce warriors at the time—did not allow them to stay.

Planting a durian tree as a remembrance of our visit to Tabuk.

St. Joseph the Worker Parish, Tuga, Tabuk City

Chair of St. Peter Parish, Pinukpuk, Kalinga (F-1952)

St. Therese of the Child Jesus Parish, Conner, Apayao (F-1937)

With Fr. Ace, the parish priest of Conner. He was saying that there are still barangay chapels that would take six hours of hiking over mountains. Mass being said there every month.

Our Lady of Lourdes Parish, Kabugao, Apayao (F-1968)

The old convento made of wood of Kabugao.

With the parish priest of Kabugao, Fr. Rocky.

The parochial school of Kabugao.

At the residence of the brother-in-law of Celoy in Pudtol.

Ruins of the Mataguisi Church.

Blessing of fire for the Easter vigil.

Our Lady of the Holy Rosary Parish, Pudtol, Apayao (F-1949)

April 17 – Easter Sunday

We left the parish of Pudtol shortly after the Salubong. Our first stop was the Lussok Crystal Cave, where we took the underground river boat ride and the easy spelunking tour, which lasted less than an hour. We had to squeeze through a tight opening to enter the cave and another one when exiting. On the way back we crossed a hanging bridge.

Next we visited the parish church of Luna. Afterward we drove to Flora and, on the way back, visited the church of Sta. Marcela, completing our visits to the towns of Kalinga and Apayao.

On our way back to Manila we made a short detour to Ballesteros, Cagayan, where we visited Sr. Rovelie, who had previously been assigned to the CBCP. She now lives in their convent in Matarican West. We had lunch there.

From there we continued north, passing by Pagudpud. We made a brief stop at the Paoay Church before continuing to Vigan, where we stayed overnight at the convent.

We arrived in Vigan at around 7:30 in the evening. Msgr. Gary Formoso, our host, was already waiting together with his assistants, and they brought us to a restaurant serving Ilocano dishes for dinner. A short walk along Calle Crisologo, the historic street in the old part of the city, capped our Holy Week trip.

The following day we drove back to Manila.

For this journey we were able to visit seven of the eight towns and the city of Kalinga, and six of the seven towns of Apayao, leaving only Rizal in Kalinga and Calanasan in Apayao for another trip in the future.