A Birthday Road Trip
The Undas break, which usually falls on a long weekend, has become a favorite time for my road trips, particularly to churches I have not yet visited. This year’s three-day holiday provided another welcome occasion to explore the country’s rich religious and cultural heritage. I set my sights on the seven remaining towns of La Union that I had yet to visit, most of them tucked away in the province’s interior: Pugo, Naguilian, Burgos, Bagulin, San Gabriel, Santol, and Luna. Reaching these towns would mark the completion of my travels through all the municipalities and cities of La Union.
The
afternoon before our departure, I sent a message to Fr. Nelson Quitaleg,
Chancellor of the Diocese of San Fernando de La Union, informing him of my
planned visits and asking for the names of the parish priests.
Since the
decision was made rather late, I had little time to prepare a detailed
itinerary, determine the most practical route, or find accommodations for our
two overnight stays.
This was where artificial intelligence came to the rescue! I simply entered the seven towns I wanted to visit into ChatGPT and asked it to arrange the most practical itinerary, recommend affordable accommodations within my budget, and suggest nearby restaurants. Within moments, I had a proposed route, hotel recommendations, and dining options. I decided to follow the itinerary and see how well it would work in practice.
Accompanying
me were our driver, Celoy, his youngest son, Junior, and Francis, one of our
maintenance personnel.
After celebrating a private Mass, we departed Manila at eight o'clock on Saturday morning, October 31—which also happened to be my 65th birthday.
Day 1: Pugo, Naguilian, Burgos, and Bagulin
First Stop: Holy Family Parish
Church, Pugo
Our first
destination was Pugo, the southernmost town on our itinerary. After exiting
TPLEX at Rosario, we took the Rosario–Pugo Road and arrived at Holy Family
Parish Church shortly before noon.
The
church has a simple yet dignified façade of weathered gray stone-like masonry,
with Gothic-inspired pointed windows adorned with colorful stained glass. A
prominent square bell tower with a pyramidal roof rises on the right, while
statues of saints and landscaped greenery enhance its rustic and prayerful
character.
Inside,
the sanctuary is distinguished by an ornate white-and-gold retablo featuring
the Holy Family at its center, crowned by a crucifix and flanked by statues of St. John John Mary Vianney and St. Therese of the Child Jesus. Gothic-inspired arches and delicate gold ornamentation contrast
beautifully with the rustic stone-patterned walls. The freestanding altar,
decorated with Eucharistic symbols, completes the sanctuary's warm and reverent
atmosphere.
I asked a
boy at the convento about the parish priest and was informed that he was
resting in his room. Since it was already noon, I decided not to disturb him.
We then
had lunch at a roadside carinderia near the town rotunda. Nothing
elaborate—just the familiar comfort of freshly prepared local food, which is
often part of the pleasure of traveling through the provinces.
Holy Family Parish (F-1909)
Pugo, La Union
St. Augustine Parish Church,
Naguilian
Our next
destination was Naguilian. Instead of proceeding toward Agoo, we turned right
at Tubao, reaching MacArthur Highway before the bridge near Aringay. We reached
St. Augustine Parish Church in less than an hour.
The
church immediately impressed me with its elegant, symmetrical façade painted in
beige and white. Twin bell towers frame the structure, while tall columns,
decorative arches, triangular pediments, and a central dome-like crown topped
by a cross give it a classical appearance.
The
sanctuary was even more impressive.
A
magnificent Baroque-inspired retablo, richly ornamented in white and gold,
dominates the sanctuary against warm reddish-brick walls. At its center is a
prominent crucifix, flanked by images of the Immaculate Conception and St.
Joseph, with the Santo Niño occupying the uppermost niche.
Two
smaller ornate side altars, dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and St.
Augustine of Hippo, complement the central retablo. The elaborately decorated
Eucharistic altar stands on a raised, red-carpeted platform, while
stained-glass windows above add to the sanctuary's grandeur.
Another
feature that caught my attention was the collection of six ivory-colored
bas-relief panels arranged vertically on columns on both sides of the
sanctuary. Enclosed in richly ornamented golden frames, these panels depict
religious scenes featuring Christ, saints, and gatherings of the faithful.
Equally
remarkable were the Stations of the Cross. Unlike ordinary framed paintings,
these were vividly colored, three-dimensional reliefs depicting the Passion of
Christ, each enclosed in an elaborate gilded frame adorned with floral
scrollwork.
St. Augustine of Hippo Parish (F-1839)
Naguilian, La Union
When I entered the convento, the parish secretary immediately recognized me and asked me to wait while he called the parish priest. Apparently, Fr. Nelson had already informed them of my visit.
The
parish priest, Fr. Frederick Ferrer, warmly welcomed me. He had even
discovered that it was my birthday!
He
explained that when he learned I was coming, he searched social media to find
out more about me. Before we departed, he generously gave us two bottles of
vinegar as souvenirs.
Our Lady of Fatima Parish Church,
Burgos
From
Naguilian, we proceeded eastward to a more interior town of Burgos, approximately eight kilometers away.
Our Lady
of Fatima Parish Church has a simple but distinctive modern façade combining
reddish-brick masonry with white wall panels. Its geometric design is
highlighted by a tall central gable, a circular decorative feature, and a large
rectangular window above the entrance. A freestanding bell tower on the right,
crowned by a cross, gives the church its distinctive character.
Inside,
the sanctuary features a rustic red-brick backdrop framed by a large decorative
arch. A prominent crucifix occupies the central recess, with the tabernacle
directly beneath it. Statues of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Joseph flank
the sanctuary, while a simple marble-like altar decorated with flowers
completes its prayerful atmosphere.
When I
asked about the parish priest, the man I approached immediately guessed that I
was the expected visitor.
The
parish priest, a member of the Society of the Divine Word (SVD), told me that
he had been assigned to the parish for only two years.
He
invited us to the convento, where sandwiches had already been prepared for us.
Our Lady of Fatima Parish (F-1949)
Burgos, La Union
St. Joseph Parish Church, Bagulin
Our final
parish destination for the day was Bagulin.
To reach
the town, we returned to Naguilian and then turned toward the mountainous
interior. Bagulin was approximately 14 kilometers away.
The
church has a charming façade painted in cream and bright turquoise green, with
gracefully curved outlines reminiscent of traditional Spanish colonial
churches. A central bell arch crowned by a cross rises above the entrance,
while a small niche contains the statue of St. Joseph, the parish patron.
Its long
orange-red roof, palm trees, flowering plants, and surrounding greenery give
the church a peaceful rural character.
The
sanctuary is simple but colorful. A central crucifix stands against a painted
backdrop of heavenly clouds and angels. Above it is a radiant image of the Holy
Spirit in the form of a dove. Rustic stonework covers the lower sanctuary
walls, while the tabernacle on the left and the statue of St. Joseph on the
right flank the central crucifix.
One
feature that particularly attracted my attention was the Stations of the Cross.
These colorful, hand-painted illustrations depict the Passion of Christ within arched compositions, each surrounded by a deep maroon background and a simple black frame crowned by a small cross and Roman numeral. What makes them especially distinctive is their Ilocano captions, bringing the mysteries of Christ's suffering closer to the language and devotional life of the local faithful.
While I
was taking photographs, the parish priest came over and introduced himself. He
was a middle-aged priest of stocky build, with a round face and a friendly,
approachable manner.
During
our conversation, he mentioned that Bagulin was among the poorest parishes in
the diocese and, as I understood it, received some financial assistance.
St. Joseph Parish (F-1957)Bagulin, La Union
Being an interior parish in a mountainous area, it faces particular challenges. The parish priest explained that there was a road through the mountains leading directly to San Fernando City which was only 13 kilometers away. Unfortunately, heavy rains the previous August had caused a landslide, and the road had not yet been completely repaired.
Consequently,
we had no choice but to backtrack through Naguilian and Bauang before
proceeding to San Fernando City which was 30 kilometers away, where I had reserved a room at a roadside
hotel.
That
evening, we had supper at Elyu's Food Park at the city. Two restaurants recommended by
ChatGPT had already closed at seven o'clock, so we had to find another place to
eat.
After a full day of travel and four parish visits, we were ready for a good night's rest.
Day 2: San Gabriel, Santol, and
Luna
Sunday Morning in San Fernando
The following morning was Sunday, November 1, the Solemnity of All Saints. Our plan was to visit the three remaining towns: San Gabriel, Santol, and Luna. Before setting out, we decided to attend Mass in San Fernando City.
There was
a quasi-parish church barely half a kilometer from our hotel, with a scheduled
Sunday Mass at 7:30 a.m. However, when we arrived about fifteen minutes before
the scheduled celebration, we found the gates still locked.
We
therefore proceeded to the cathedral. By the time we arrived, the priest was
already delivering his homily. We stayed until the end of the Mass and then had
breakfast at a nearby Jollibee.
From
there, we continued to San Gabriel, approximately 16 kilometers away.
San Gabriel Parish Church
We
arrived shortly before nine o'clock, just as the Mass intentions were being
read. There were quite a number of them.
I
introduced myself to the parish priest, who was already at the back of the
church preparing for the celebration. Since he had been informed of my visit,
he immediately invited me to concelebrate.
I gladly
accepted. Originally, I had been considering celebrating a private Mass in
Luna, since it was the largest church on our itinerary and the parish had
recently applied for elevation to the rank of minor basilica.
But the
opportunity to concelebrate with the parish community in San Gabriel was a
welcome change of plan.
The
church features a simple yet imposing red-brick façade with a broad triangular
gable crowned by a cross. Clean geometric lines, narrow arched recesses, and a
central entrance sheltered by a projecting canopy characterize its design. A
tall rectangular bell tower rises on the left, while landscaped gardens and
surrounding trees enhance its spacious churchyard.
Inside,
the sanctuary features a classical-inspired retablo in soft pink, cream, and
gold. A large crucifix dominates the center, illuminated by blue lighting, with
the tabernacle positioned beneath it.
On either
side are statues of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. Gabriel the Archangel,
displayed in beautifully illuminated blue niches.
After
Mass, the parish priest, Fr. Crispin Reyes invited us to the convento for snacks. To my
surprise, he served us homemade ice cream!
He
explained that making ice cream was one of his hobbies. He even experimented
with unusual flavors, including squash ice cream, although none was available
that morning.
Later, at
another parish, someone jokingly remarked that Fr. Crispin's fondness for
making ice cream had contributed to his becoming diabetic. Whether or not there
was any truth to the joke, the homemade ice cream was certainly a memorable
part of our visit!
St. Gabriel the Archangel Parish (F-1935)
San Gabriel, La Union
Our Lady of Victory Parish
Church, Santol
From San
Gabriel, we had to return to the main highway and proceed north toward
Bacnotan.
The more
direct mountain road connecting San Gabriel to Santol was impassable, so we
continued to Balaoan before taking the road toward Santol, approximately ten
kilometers inland.
Our Lady
of Victory Parish Church sits on elevated ground, reached by a steep driveway
and a flight of steps.
Its
modest façade is painted in cream with reddish-brown accents and a triangular
gabled roof. A colorful stained-glass panel decorates the upper portion, while
a projecting canopy shelters the entrance.
To the
left stands a distinctive stone-clad bell arch containing two bells, with a
large crucifix beneath it.
The
church is surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, flowering shrubs, and
carefully maintained gardens, giving the place a peaceful and secluded
atmosphere.
The
sanctuary features a striking modern retablo dominated by a large crucifix
against a radiant silver-and-gold backdrop. On either side stand statues of the
Blessed Virgin Mary holding the Child Jesus and St. Joseph, framed by
decorative panels and colorful geometric stained-glass windows.
The lower
sanctuary walls are finished in rustic stonework, complementing the warm wooden
furnishings.
The
freestanding altar has a particularly meaningful feature: a carved
representation of a mother pelican with her wings outstretched, feeding her
young from her own breast. In Christian symbolism, the pelican feeding her
young with her own blood represents Christ's self-sacrificing love and the
Eucharist.
While I
was inside the church, the young parish priest arrived from the cemetery. He
was Fr. Dexter Rivera, ordained only three years earlier. I was
especially interested in meeting him because he shared the name of a priest
from Palo.
During our conversation, he spoke about the difficulties of sustaining a small mountain parish. The Sunday collections were barely sufficient to meet the parish's expenses. To supplement its income, he had devised a practical and resourceful initiative. He purchased vegetables grown by local farmers and resold them, helping both the farmers and the parish at the same time.
It was a
simple but admirable example of pastoral creativity—finding ways to support the
community while also helping sustain the parish.
At the
convento, I also noticed a dog kept inside. Fr. Dexter explained that it served
as an effective watchdog, barking whenever someone approached.
Our visit
offered a glimpse of the resourcefulness and dedication required of priests
serving small and financially struggling rural parishes.
Our Lady of Victory Parish (F-1990)Santol, La Union
A Brief Stop at Corro-oy
On our
way to Luna, we passed another parish church in Corro-oy, still within the
municipality of Santol.
Since it
was situated right along the road, we decided to make a brief stop. The parish
cemetery was located immediately behind the church.
St. Isidore the Farmer Parish Church in Corro-oy features a simple yet attractive modern façade that blends geometric architectural elements with a peaceful countryside setting. The church has a prominent triangular gable, with cream-colored square wall panels framed by reddish-brown brickwork, giving the building a warm and orderly appearance.
A projecting entrance canopy bears the name “St. Isidore the Farmer Parish,” while a small bell tower rises on the right, crowned by a red pyramidal roof and a cross.
One of the church's most appealing features is its beautifully landscaped surroundings. A broad flight of stone steps leads to the main entrance, flanked by neatly trimmed shrubs, flowering plants, and palm trees. The greenery complements the church's modest architecture, creating a welcoming and tranquil atmosphere.
Two religious statues occupy the niches on either side: the Blessed Virgin Mary on the left and St. Isidore the Farmer, the parish patron, on the right. The freestanding altar, covered with a white embroidered cloth, features Eucharistic symbols, including the Chi-Rho monogram and the Lamb of God. Floral arrangements at its base add a touch of natural beauty.
The polished floor, subdued wall colors, and uncluttered furnishings contribute to the sanctuary's serene and prayerful atmosphere.
St. Isidore the Farmer Parish (F-1947)
Corro-oy, Santol, La Union
St. Catherine of Alexandria
Parish Church, Luna
Our final
parish destination was St. Catherine of Alexandria Parish Church in Luna.
Of all the churches we visited during this trip, Luna's was perhaps the most architecturally impressive. The church has an imposing, symmetrical façade painted in soft blue and white, with elegant gold accents. Its Baroque-inspired design features two octagonal bell towers crowned with pointed cupolas, gracefully curved pediments, decorative columns, and arched niches containing religious images. A central stained-glass window depicting the Blessed Virgin Mary rises above the main entrance, while a cross crowns the façade.
Inside, the church has a spacious, elongated nave with rows of wooden pews arranged along a central tiled aisle. Tall, dark wooden columns with gold trim support the ceiling, while decorative arches, chandeliers, and ceiling fans enhance the interior.
The white
ceiling, adorned with geometric panels and gold embellishments, contrasts
beautifully with the dark woodwork. Large arched windows admit natural light,
creating a solemn and peaceful atmosphere.
The sanctuary is dominated by a magnificent multi-tiered Baroque-inspired retablo, richly decorated in white and gold. Its elaborate Solomonic columns, intricate floral carvings, and numerous niches containing statues of saints surround a central crucifix. The lower central niche contains the tabernacle, flanked by religious images, while the upper sections display additional sacred figures.
The
freestanding altar is equally ornate, featuring a gilded relief of the Last
Supper on its front panel, complemented by Eucharistic symbols and decorative
scrollwork.
Set
against a red-carpeted sanctuary and an arched wooden ceiling, the entire
arrangement creates an atmosphere of grandeur, reverence, and sacred beauty.
Unfortunately,
the parish priest was not at the convento when we arrived. Since the sanctuary
was rather dark, I asked a woman at the convento whether the altar lights could
be switched on so that I could take better photographs. Fortunately, she found
an altar server who knew where the switches were.
With the
sanctuary properly illuminated, I was able to appreciate and photograph the
beauty of the magnificent retablo.
Shrine of Our Lady of Namacpacan and St. Catherine of Alexandria Parish (F-1690)
Luna, La Union
We then
had lunch at a nearby carinderia.
With that
visit, I had finally accomplished the principal purpose of the journey: visiting
the seven remaining towns and their parish churches, thereby completing my
visits to all the towns of La Union.
But the day was far from over.
An Afternoon of Art, Beaches, and
the Sea
Having
completed our parish visits, we decided to spend the rest of the afternoon
enjoying La Union's coastal attractions. Our first intended destination was
Darigayos Beach in Luna. However, along the way, we noticed a sign pointing
toward Bato de Luna, an unusual art gallery and museum. Since it was
nearby, we decided to make a short detour.
Bato de Luna: Where Stones Become
Art
Bato de
Luna is a fascinating art destination showcasing imaginative sculptures and
artworks made from natural stones, driftwood, and other locally available
materials.
Even its
entrance is unusual. A giant green turtle's head projects above a structure
covered with rounded river stones, immediately attracting the attention of
visitors. Inside, we discovered an extraordinary collection of colorful
artworks.
Hundreds
of painted stones had been transformed into smiling faces, butterflies, owls,
fish, and other animals.
Particularly
striking were the driftwood sculptures. Naturally twisted roots, branches, and
tree trunks had been transformed into expressive human faces, animals, and
imaginative figures. What might otherwise have been discarded pieces of wood
had become remarkable works of art. The museum also highlights Luna's tradition
of stone craftsmanship.
Along the
nearby shoreline, artisans carve large stones into decorative sculptures,
including giant seashells, turtles, and other ornamental pieces.
Swimming at Darigayos Beach
After our
visit to Bato de Luna, we proceeded to Darigayos Beach in Luna. The beach lies along a
picturesque coastal stretch, with its cove-like setting providing an inviting
place to enjoy the sea. We finally had the opportunity to take a refreshing
swim after spending much of the previous day and the morning visiting churches.
We stayed for about an hour, enjoying the water and the coastal scenery.
Urbiztondo Beach, San Juan
Our final
destination for the afternoon was the famous Urbiztondo Beach in San Juan,
one of La Union's best-known surfing destinations. Unlike the quieter Darigayos
Beach, Urbiztondo was bustling with activity. There were many people along the
shore, while surfers rode the waves farther out at sea. We spent almost two
hours swimming and enjoying the beach.
At around
5:40 p.m., the beach guards began calling swimmers out of the water, signaling
that it was time to leave.
It was a
fitting conclusion to an afternoon devoted entirely to relaxation.
Back at
the hotel, we decided to have supper at Grumpy Joe, conveniently located beside
our accommodation.
The
restaurant offered a variety of dishes, including pizza, pasta, and chicken. After
two days of traveling through the towns, visiting churches, meeting priests,
and enjoying the beaches, a leisurely dinner was a pleasant way to end the day.
Day 3: The Pindangan Ruins and
the Journey Home
Early the
following morning, November 2, we prepared for our return journey to Manila.
But there
was one final place I wanted to visit before leaving La Union.
The Historic Pindangan Ruins
Our last
stop was the Pindangan Ruins in San Fernando City. These are the remains
of an old church dating back to the Spanish colonial period, traditionally
associated with the early history of Catholicism in the area.
The church was damaged by
earthquakes in the nineteenth century, leaving behind its historic stone walls.
Today, the ruins are situated within the grounds of a Carmelite monastery. Although
our visit was brief, it was a meaningful final stop.
After
seeing so many parish churches—some modern, others displaying traditional
architectural influences—it was interesting to end the journey at the remains
of an earlier church.
The ruins
offered a reminder of the long history of the Catholic faith in La Union and of
the generations of missionaries, priests, and faithful who had helped establish
and sustain the Church in this part of the country.
From there, we continued our journey south. We arrived back in Manila shortly before noon.
Looking Back: More Than Just a
Road Trip
What
began as a simple plan to visit seven remaining towns of La Union became a
memorable three-day journey. In two days, we visited the parish churches of
Pugo, Naguilian, Burgos, Bagulin, San Gabriel, Santol, and Luna, with an
additional brief stop at Corro-oy.
Each
church had its own distinctive character. Some impressed me with their
elaborate retablos and beautiful architecture. Others stood out for their
simplicity, rural setting, or devotional artworks. But beyond the buildings
themselves, what made the journey especially meaningful were the encounters
with the parish priests.
I was
reminded once again that the life of a parish priest varies considerably
depending on where he is assigned.
Some serve relatively established communities with adequate resources. Others minister in small mountain parishes where Sunday collections are hardly sufficient to maintain the church and support parish activities. Yet, despite these difficulties, the priests I met continued to serve their communities with dedication, resourcefulness, and good humor.
There was
also the pleasure of discovering the natural and cultural attractions of La
Union—from the creative stone sculptures of Bato de Luna to the refreshing
waters of Darigayos and the lively surfing beach of Urbiztondo.
And, of
course, there was the unexpected usefulness of AI in helping organize the trip.
Although
not every recommendation worked perfectly, ChatGPT helped me prepare a
practical itinerary at very short notice, allowing us to make the most of our
limited time.
Perhaps
the most satisfying part of the journey was knowing that I had finally
completed my visits to all the towns of La Union. I began the trip on my 65th
birthday and returned home two days later with new memories, renewed
appreciation for parish life, and a deeper awareness of the beauty and
diversity of this province.
In the end, the journey was not simply about reaching seven destinations. It was about the churches that welcomed us, the priests who shared their stories, the communities that sustain their faith, and the beauty we discovered along the way.
To see previous post on La Union click here.
