BEACHES AND CHURCHES: CHURCHES OF ISABELA: Part Three

April 15, Tuesday

In between my journey to the remote coastal towns of Isabela—Maconacon, Divilacan, and Palanan—I had the privilege of visiting several towns and churches in the province. On my first day in Ilagan, before heading to Maconacon, Bishop William graciously offered to take me around as both guide and driver.

Our first stop was the St. Clare Monastery in Gamu, a peaceful sanctuary not far from the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Visitation in Barangay Guibang, also in Gamu. The shrine had been completely rebuilt since my last visit about ten years ago. This time, instead of facing the highway, the church's new facade stood parallel to it—an architectural shift that caught my attention.

From there, we proceeded to Benito Soliven, where the parish is under the care of the Order of Carmelites (O.Carm.). The parish priest, a native of the town, had expressed his desire to be incardinated into the diocese, but his superiors prevailed upon him to remain in his community. In response, the Carmelite community requested that a parish be entrusted to them within the diocese, allowing their priest to serve in familiar surroundings. Sadly, the church’s expansion is limited, as part of the frontage and left side of the church already encroach on private property.

Incidentally, Benito Soliven, the town's namesake, was a well-known statesman from Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur. He was instrumental in the town’s creation and was honored posthumously by having the municipality named after him.

We then made our way to San Mariano, where the church is dramatically perched on a hilltop, as if on a cliff, with the Ilagan River flowing just below. There, we were welcomed by one of the priests assigned to the parish—a classmate of Fr. Jake Kanoy, the priest residing at the bishop's residence. The parish, dedicated to St. Thomas Aquinas, houses a remarkable relic said to be part of the saint’s skull. We were served coffee and binalay, a sticky rice delicacy wrapped in banana leaves made especially during Holy Week, along with inatata—another traditional treat.

Our final stop for the day was the parish of Reina Mercedes, where we also met the parish priest. Nearby, we visited the Meraki Garden, a blooming expanse filled with vibrant bougainvilleas in every imaginable shade. The garden's gracious owner, Lyn, welcomed us warmly.

We returned to the bishop’s house at around 7:30 p.m., just in time for supper.

Poor Clare Monastery, Gamu, Isabela.

National Shrine of Our Lady of the Visitation
Brgy. Guibang, Gamu, Isabela

The last time I visited the shrine, this side part, which faces the highway, was still the facade.

Our Lady of Peace Parish (F-1970)
Benito Soliven, Isabela

With the parish priest, Fr. Gilbert Sabado, O.Carm.

St. Thomas Aquinas Parish (F-1957)
San Mariano, Isabela

The relics from St. Thomas Aquinas. It's the biggest relic of a saint that I ever saw here in the Philippines.

With the assistant parish priest of San Mariano who served us Binalay and Inatata, delicacies of Isabela.

Binalay, a sticky rice delicacy wrapped in banana leaves.

Inatata, Isabela's version of suman malagkit.

The view of the Ilagan river from the convento.

St. Anthony of Padua Parish (F-1877)
Reina Mercedes, Isabela

Meraki Gardens, Reina Mercedes, Isabela

With the owner of the Meraki Garden, Lyn Marcaida.

April 20, Sunday

After arrival at the Cauayan airport from Palanan, I passed by the parish church of Cauayan City before proceeding to the bishop's house in Ilagan. With still enough time to spare in the afternoon, Bishop William asked Fr. Jake Kanoy to take me on another round of church visits. We left around 2:45 p.m. and first stopped by the Naguilian church, which is currently under renovation. A larger structure is being constructed to enclose the old church, and the foundational posts of the new building are already in place.

Our Lady of the Pillar Parish (F-1741)
Cauayan City, Isabela

St. Joseph the Spouse of Mary Parish (F-1896)
Naguilian, Isabela

A bigger church which would envelope the old church is in the process of construction.

We next visited the town of Angadanan. As we parked near the church, we discovered that a key had punctured the rear tire, causing it to slowly deflate. Several kind-hearted locals from the convento offered to help change the tire, but the metal rod needed to release the spare tire was stuck. In the end, the tire had to be brought to a vulcanizing shop in Alicia. This detour delayed us for over an hour.

While we waited, the assistant parish priest—whom I initially mistook for a sacristan because of his youthful appearance—prepared some snacks. He turned out to be a classmate of Fr. Jake. Despite the delay, we managed to squeeze in one last stop: the town of San Guillermo, though it was already getting dark by the time we arrived.

St. Vincent Ferrer Parish (F-1778)
Angadanan, Isabela

Our car had a flat tire, but in the process of taking out the spare tire, the metal rod needed to release the spare tire got stuck.

St. William the Hermit Parish
San Guillermo, Isabela

With Bp. William and Fr. Jun Castañeda, who is the brother of classmate of mine in high school.

With Fr. Jake Kanoy, who toured me around some of the towns.

That evening, we had supper at the bishop’s residence with Fr. Edmundo “Jun” Castañeda, who joined us. I had asked to meet him because he is the younger brother of Mandy Castañeda, a high school classmate I haven’t seen in decades. We spent a long evening catching up—over Heineken and good conversation.

April 21, Monday – The Last Stops

With my return flight to Manila scheduled in the afternoon, I had some time in the morning to visit a few more churches.

Our first stop was the old Cathedral of Ilagan in the town proper, whose interior had been tragically destroyed in a fire the previous year during ceiling renovations. The blaze caused a large portion of the roof to collapse, leaving the structure in a sorrowful state, though still standing with dignity.

From there, we drove to Quirino, where the Stations of the Cross in the church captivated me. Each station was a carved wooden panel, uniquely depicting either just the hands or the feet of Christ—an artistic and contemplative approach that stayed with me.

We continued on to Burgos, then made a final stop in Gamu, where I had the pleasure of meeting the parish priest—an alumnus of the University of Santo Tomas.

St. Ferdinand Parish Church (F-1612)
Ilagan, Isabela

While they were trying to put some steel trusses in the ceiling to support the ceiling fans they were trying to install fire broke out destroying the church last April 22, 2024.

A charred door.

I finally got to meet Fr. Larry Sucuano, whom Bishop William had asked to arrange my stay in Maconacon. His father, a long-time lay minister in Maconacon and a close friend of Archbishop Utleg, served as my tour guide and driver—reliably taking me around on his trusty motorcycle.