BEACHES AND CHURCHES: Holy Week in the Remote Coastal Towns of Isabela

For Holy Week this year, I chose to visit the remote coastal towns of Isabela province—Maconacon, Divilacan, and Palanan. These towns are separated from the rest of Isabela by the formidable Sierra Madre mountain range, which has kept them largely isolated. In 2016, a road project was launched to connect Ilagan City to Divilacan, but nearly a decade later, only about 50% of the 82-kilometer stretch has been completed. The road remains closed to public vehicles, though a few adventurous motorcyclists manage to navigate the rough terrain on dry days.

With no overland access, transportation to these towns is limited. Goods and passengers bound for Maconacon and Divilacan typically endure an 11-hour boat ride from Sta. Ana, Cagayan. Palanan, on the other hand, is served by boats coming from Dilasag, Aurora. The more common—but costly and uncertain—means of travel is by chartered plane from Cauayan which had a rising number of plane crashes due to difficult flying conditions.

Since there is no official website or booking system for flights to these towns, I had to rely on local contacts to arrange my trip. Thankfully, Bishop David William Antonio, the bishop of Ilagan, kindly offered to help and readily made the necessary arrangements for my flight.

April 15, Tuesday

I was pleasantly surprised when I found out that the flight from Manila to Cauayan, Isabela was on an Airbus, not a propeller plane as I had imagined. The cabin was almost full, a sign of how busy this route has become, with two daily Cebu Pacific flights and one from PAL.

At Cauayan Airport, I was warmly welcomed by Bishop William. We drove straight to the Bishop’s residence in Ilagan, about 30 minutes away, where we had a leisurely lunch filled with meaningful conversation.

April 16, Wednesday

After an early breakfast, Bishop William brought me back to the airport. On the way, we stopped at a 7-Eleven to look for a SIM card, as I had just learned that Globe has no signal in Maconacon. Unfortunately, they had none in stock.

At the small SkyPasada ticket office, I was weighed along with my luggage—a requirement for these small charter planes. My senior discounted fare came to ₱2,445. At the airport, I bumped into Fr. Joey Donato, the Franciscan parish priest of Palanan. I mentioned my plan to visit his town on Black Saturday which he gladly welcomed.

There were only six passengers, including the pilot, on the 8-seater plane. I was seated beside the pilot, with a full view of the cockpit and even a steering wheel in front of me. Though we took off under cloudy skies, it cleared quickly, and we landed in Maconacon after a smooth 30-minute flight.

In Maconacon, Lorenzo "Enzo" Sucuano, father of Fr. Larry, took charge of my stay. Enzo, a well-respected figure in town, welcomed me into his home where I met his children, including Johnjohn, a former seminarian. We had fresh buko juice as I registered a new TNT SIM card—thankfully available in town.

We also stopped by the church where I met Fr. Gerry Gudmalin, the parish priest from the Dinagat Islands. My accommodation was arranged at Archbishop Utleg’s seaside house, since the homestay owner they had initially contacted had to leave for Cauayan.

Before lunch, we went to the port where locals were selling blue marlin. Enzo bought a few kilos, and we enjoyed freshly prepared kinilaw and sashimi.

That afternoon, we toured the town on Enzo’s trusty old motorcycle. We crossed one-way wooden bridges to reach the Sumadag (or Sapao) rock formation, then back to the fish port for coffee. Later, we headed to the next town of Divilacan, passing his beachfront property, Dicatian Lake, and a wildlife sanctuary that once housed crocodiles brought from Palawan.

In Divilacan, we stopped at the municipal hall and a scenic boulevard by the shore.

I attended the 5:30 PM Mass with Fr. Lito Gaelan, SVD, who remembered me from his previous requests to use the CBCP chapel for pilgrimages. After Mass, we had a simple but warm dinner prepared by the parish council president, as Fr. Lito lives alone without staff.

April 17, Holy Thursday

Nenet, the caretaker of Abp. Utleg’s house, prepared sunny-side-up eggs and coffee. Enzo arrived with some SkyFlakes—there was no bread in the bakery that morning.

We then set out on the “Bishop’s Loop”, an 8-kilometer trekking trail pioneered by Archbishop Utleg and Enzo. The trail included multiple shallow river crossings, patches of thick vegetation, and two recent landslides. At the final river crossing, we couldn’t resist a refreshing dip.

Later, we went for a brief swim in the sea across the house. After lunch and rest, I attended the Mass of the Lord’s Supper at the parish church, about 2 km away. I shared a brief message after Communion and the renewal of commitments by parish leaders. The altar of repose was uniquely placed at the choir loft.

A major improvement: as of this April, Maconacon and Divilacan now have 24-hour electricity, replacing their limited nighttime power supply.

The 8-seater plane going to Maconacon, Isabela.

Was seated right beside the pilot for the 30-minute flight to Maconacon.

Meeting Fr. Gerry Gudmalin, SVD, the parish priest of Maconacon.

With Enzo, the first lay minister in Maconacon and my guide during my stay in Maconacon and Divilacan.

At the Sumadag Rock Formation in Maconacon.

With Enzo, we did the Bishop's Loop an 8-kilometer trek on the mountain slope just near the residence of Abp. Utleg.

Crossed a number of times this river.

Took a dip into the cool refreshing waters of the river before ending the trek.

After the trek we finished it off with a dip in the sea just across the residence of Abp. Utleg.

The retirement home of Abp. Sergio Utleg in Maconacon where I stayed.

St. Joseph the Worker Parish, Maconacon, Isabela

Fr. Gerry Gudmalin performing the washing of the feet.

There was a renewal of commitment of the parish leaders at the Mass of the Lord's Supper on Holy Thursday.

With the "Apostoles" whose feet were washed during the Lord's Supper.

April 18, Good Friday

I spent the quiet morning soaking in the natural beauty around the Archbishop’s house. Around 10:30, I wandered to the nearby beach and took a dip in the clearer waters further south.

Enzo later invited me for lunch. At first, I declined, having skipped breakfast, but he insisted. The fern salad he had foraged during our trek was delicious, paired with fried blue marlin and vegetables.

At 2 PM, Johnjohn drove me back to Divilacan to attend the Good Friday Liturgy. When we arrived, a lay sharer was giving a heartfelt reflection on the Third Word. The Siete Palabras ended at 3:45, and the liturgy began with just about 50 parishioners in attendance—including two police officers, as also seen in Maconacon.

The Veneration of the Cross was slow and reverent. The crucifix was laid on the floor and people took their time to pray and kiss it. The Santo Entierro procession followed, with the statue carried manually on wooden poles around a few blocks.

Afterward, a parish couple—Anthony and Femarie Malaga—invited us to their home. Though I was fasting, they gently insisted, having missed their chance to host earlier in the week. They turned out to be deeply involved in parish life and originally hailed from Kalinga.

Interestingly, while Maconacon’s liturgies were in Ilocano, Divilacan used Tagalog, being a melting pot of people from Ilocos, Kalinga, the Visayas, and Palanan.

A Good Friday reflection by the sea.

Having lunch at the residence of Enzo

Our Lady of the Abandoned Parish, Divilacan, Isabela

The parish church of Divilacan with the faithful in attendance for the Good Friday liturgy.

With Fr. Nilo Gealan, SVD, parish priest of Divilacan.

Good Friday procession in Divilacan

With Anthony and Femarie who invited me for snacks at their residence after the Good Friday liturgy in Divilacan

April 19, Black Saturday

I woke before dawn for our boat ride to Palanan. Enzo suggested a 5 AM departure so we could pass by Honeymoon Island (also known as Estagno Island). We arrived there at 6:15 AM and stayed briefly while his companions had breakfast.

We continued by boat for 33 kilometers to Barangay Culasi, entered the vast mouth of the Palanan River, then took a tricycle for the remaining 8 kilometers to town.

Fr. Joey Donato, the parish priest, welcomed me at the convent. A native of Palanan, he was ordained in 2023 and is serving his first assignment here. He shared that while the Franciscans began their mission in Palanan in 1609, they only returned to take charge of the parish in 2007, after decades without a resident priest.

Though Paranan is the local dialect, liturgies are in Tagalog due to linguistic diversity. Fr. Joey sometimes incorporates Paranan in his homilies.

He brought me to the Blue Lagoon, a strikingly deep, clear freshwater pool near town. We relaxed on a bamboo raft and shared drinks, enjoying the cool waters. On our return to the town, we joined his extended family for a picnic by the river.

That evening, Fr. Joey asked me to preside over the Easter Vigil. It began with the lighting of the new fire and included three adult and three infant baptisms. The Exsultet was sung, and children wearing LED-lit costumes danced down the aisle—a uniquely local touch.

April 20, Easter Sunday

We began the day with the Salubong at 4 AM, culminating in a joyful Regina Coeli sung by children dressed as angels. After the Mass, the community held an egg hunt with cash prizes and served lugaw to everyone present.

I was set to take the third flight back to Cauayan. Bro. Fidel Addauan, OFM, brought me to the airport to be weighed—standard practice here. Once weighed, one is usually confirmed for boarding, though occasional cancellations still happen.

Thankfully, both the second and third flights arrived without issue. Our plane took off, made a U-turn over the sea, crossed the Sierra Madre, and landed safely after a smooth 30-minute flight.

This Holy Week journey through Maconacon, Divilacan, and Palanan was not just a travel adventure—it was a pilgrimage through faith, resilience, and community in some of the most remote corners of Isabela. Their simplicity, hospitality, and vibrant devotion remain etched in my memory.